Pastis Gascon (Crispy Apple Pie)
Hi and Happy Holidays! For the last few months I’ve been very occupied with attending culinary baking classes at a local community college here in CT. The lab work in the kitchen is very “hands-on” so I’ve been picking up the skills and techniques for improving my ability to bake various pies, cakes and other desserts.
I’m feeling a little bolder about trying new things so I’ve taken a swing at a New York Times recipe from Nicola Lamb for “Pastis Gascon”, the french cousin of apple pie. The “crust” for this pie is built from phyllo pastry sheets and generous amounts of butter. These sheets are paper thin and must be handled delicately but they end up being an ingredient that brings a unique and satisfying touch to this desert.
The first key decision is which apple variety to use and I chose my personal favorite of the sweeter apples, Fuji. The apples are tossed with brown sugar, apple cider vinegar and a liqueur (optional) to create a unique flavor. This mixture is slowly simmered in butter and while it cooks it will fill your home with that sweet smell of the holidays that makes others rush to the kitchen to see what magic is happening.
Anyone who has worked with paper thin, tightly rolled phyllo sheets knows they can be tricky to handle, but carefully unfolding them on a flat, dry countertop and covering them with a damp towel to keep them moist is key.
As you crinkle the buttered sheets into layers at the bottom of the springform pan and then pour the apple mixture into the center you begin to see how the use of phyllo as both pie crust and crumble may actually work.
After you layer on additional sheets on top you must resist the temptation to press down. Let the ever so delicate phyllo to sit on top of the apple mixture like a dapper chapeaux, waiting for its turn in the oven.
Your reward is a golden brown, delicately crunchy top, an equally light and crunchy bottom, surrounding a warm and flavorful apple center.
Take your time, enjoy the rewards of a warm, fresh-baked pie, and have a wonderful holiday season.
Pastis Gascon
Prep Time: Apples (45 minutes); Phyllo (30 minutes); Bake (30-40 minutes)
Ingredients
2 lbs (907 g) firm, sweet apples (I used Fuji - Honeycrisp or Pink Lady are also good)
½ cup (100 g) light brown sugar
2 tsps apple cider vinegar
¼ cup (50g) Armagnac brandy or other liqueur (optional)
10 tbsp (141 g) unsalted butter, divided
6 tbsp (48 g) granulated sugar
8 phyllo pastry sheets (178 g) - 14” x 18” (or 16-20 sheets of smaller sizes)
The Recipe
Peel, core, and cut the apples into very thin slices. In a medium bowl, toss the apples with the brown sugar, cider vinegar and liqueur (if using). Let the mixture sit for about 20 minutes.
Heat 2 tbsp of the butter in a large skillet on medium heat. When melted and foaming, turn off the heat and carefully add the apple mixture (especially if you added alcohol). Turn the heat back on to medium and cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, until apples are tender and liquid has evaporated (15-20 minutes). Return the apple mixture to the bowl and leave to cool completely. (The bowl can also sit in some cold water to bring the temperature down).
While the apples cool, heat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Prepare your pie building area to work with the phyllo: Melt the remaining 8 tbsp of butter in small pot. Place the brown sugar in a small bowl. Unroll and smooth the phyllo sheets ( you will need more than 8 if they are smaller than 14” x 18” - weigh them to get to a proper amount). Cover the phyllo sheets with a damp tea towel to prevent them from drying out.
Snap together a 9” springform pan. Lay out 1 sheet (2 if you have a smaller size), brush generously with butter, and sprinkle with 1/2 to 1 tbsp of sugar. Gently scrunch the sheet(s) and place lightly in the pan. Repeat with 3 more sheets (single or double), layering them around the pan. (Don’t compress them; let them rest lightly).
Gently press down the phyllo in the center to create a hollow, leaving about a 1 ½” border of loose, scrunched up pastry around the edge. Pile all of the apple mixture into the hollow.
Butter and sugar 3 more sheets (single or double), loosely scrunching them and layering them on top of the apples with airiness and height. Leave the remaining phyllo sheet(s) under the damp tea towel.
Bake the pie for 25 minutes and carefully remove from the oven. Butter and sugar the remaining phyllo sheet(s) and scrunch it loosely on top of the pie to add extra height. Return to the oven to bake for another 15-20 minutes, until deeply golden brown. Check often.
Leave to cool completely before releasing the springform and transferring to a serving plate.
TIP: To store, wrap well and refrigerate for up to 3 days. To rewarm, place in a 350 degree F oven for 10 - 15 minutes to crisp the phyllo before serving.
NOTE: Adapted from a recipe by Nicola Lamb published in the NY Times Food Section (12/17/25). I swapped in Amaretto Disaronno for the Armagnac brandy and I think it worked well.
